In The World - Active & Traveling
Eastern Europe
Home | Adventure Honduras | Travels 2007 | Travels 2006 | Personal | Projects | Contact

31 August 2006 – In Warsaw

 

Well, my body is not yet in sync with the time zones. Fortunately, I have to deal with only one more time zone in Lisbon  before I sail out. So – I was up early and had a good breakfast. Now I must catch up with my journal then today see a few things in Warsaw so I can move on tomorrow.  Now to plan my travels for the next couple of weeks – since I have no time schedule and little interest in running around seeing sights I am looking forward to a more vacation type travel devoting only some focused energy in the several countries I have not yet seen.to date, then it is to Athens for sailing.

 

It rained most of the night but on my way to the center of the city things cleared up and it was beautiful and warm. I walked through the “old” [rebuild] town since Warsaw was, like Rotterdam, leveled. I found a nice little restaurant then spent an hour in the History Museum – Poland sure had gone through continuous upheavals. I had had a cold so my body was functioning at peak performance so I just ambled watching the busy city around me.  I am glad to be finished with the continuous “touring” phase of my trip and now try to relax a bit limiting the tourist items to only a few. Yes, I have seen enough “old” buildings to last me a lifetime. It is really the people that are more important and finding “romantic” situations, as my book The Royal Road To Romance points out.

 

1 September 2006 – Onward to Krakow

 

I am up and relaxed, but my body time clock is still not in sync with the world. Down for a good hardy breakfast – a traveler always takes advantage of food possibilities. I used to count in a good meal as I flew around the world too.  Besides, one of my travels rules is to eat well to stay well – for if one is not well you cannot enjoy the journey … or the good looking women.

 

I went to the train station and as luck would have it I purchased my ticket, walked down the platform, and boarded my train 30 seconds after it pulled in. This train is great and so very smooth – why can’t the USA do this with our technology. [oh yes, we have a war to fight and cannot spare any money for national health, education, public transport, etc.].  In my compartment I met a pharmaceutical sales person who spoke English well so we had a good chat for over and hour.

 

I met a nice business fellow in my train compartment who spoke English well and he and I chatted for over an hour. He is a pharmaceutical sales person, has two children, and is building a new house in Krakow.  He invited me to call him tomorrow … and I did and was invited out for dinner. It is sure great to meet the local people.

 

At the other end in Krakow I got off and decided to hunt for a cheaper place to stay.  There were a number of hawkers there pushing their places and so I picked an older gentleman who had an apartment room for rent. So I am now averaging down.  Well, upon arrival I was fed some great chicken soup made by his wife – not a bad start. He seemed to know all about the city and train schedules and and and. Well, he is the third generation in this apartment. His father was a Masters in Philosophy and he showed me his diploma. The only downer was that they had lost a daughter about 5 months ago – life and death go hand in hand.

 

I went off for a walk in the local “old” square where there were horse drawn carriages for rent and a million restaurants and upscale shops all over the place. I did find a nice Italian place where I had a most delicious lasagna with spinach followed by lemon sorbet.

 

I sat in the park just watching the people as I did during breakfast. I surmise that the Polish women are quite well kept, thought many smoke, but the men tend to be dominating and sloppy – well, that is what I saw.

 

2 September 2006 – In Krakow

 

I am off on a special tour to the German Prison Camp – Auschwitz, which I am not sure I want to  but I am here and it is part of my life’s history period.  So off I went on the 80:00 tour.  Well, I can tell you that the experience of seeing the German Nazi “special” camp was interesting and a bit unnerving. Seeing the buildings, cells, death chambers, and crematorium where over 1.3 MILLION Jews and a few others were exterminated in a planned, calculated, methodically, efficient, and very callus manner is beyond mental processing.  I am sure over the millennium many other despots have waged systematic war and killed thousands if not millions of people but this Nazi Camp represents a very special effort to exterminate a class of people. The psychological disposition of those who perpetrated this endeavor plus all those who supported it is beyond imagination. I am told that the Germans had been teaching anti-Semitism for years to their people – did the US and other also do this?  How long has this been going on?  Did it start with the Middle East “tribes” 2 – 3 thousand years ago? Why. It would appear that the Middle East is still of the same tribal mentality. Who knows where it will end or how to psychology change the thought processes.  Chinggas Kahn accomplished integration of other “tribes” with the Mongols through forced intermarriage so there was no family (tribe) bias.  We saw a lot of detailed areas of the Nazi Death Camp and heard stories of how the Nazis treated the prisoners – ugh. Well,  I am glad that is over but it makes me want to just go off in a corner of the world and hide. But, of course, the USA treated the American Indians in a similar way, Viet Nam was not immune to unorthodox activity, and the current Iraq war is off the scale for a modern version of genocide of a very new type.  I heard on the British news channel that the Israeli – Lebonese terrorists was really a proxy war between the USA and Iran – an interesting idea.

 

Now back in town I sought out a nice coffee house and just sat sipping my espresso and eating a piece of apple cake – this is not a bad way to spend and hour. Now I need to get ready for dinner with the friend I met on the train.

 

3 September 2006 – Onward to Vienna, Austria

 

I was up early on this Sunday morning and packed up then, after a light breakfast, went for a very quiet walk. Since Krakow has many churches you could hear the bells then the choirs of each as I passed by – such a serene atmosphere among the old streets and buildings. Few were up and about except for some shopkeepers making their shops ready for the day, washing and sweeping the sidewalk. My tourist objective for this morning was to see the city castle so that is where I was going. En route I came across a large assembling of Boy Scouts. I spoke to one of the groups, Rangers, who told me that this was a special gathering to celebrate the first day of the Scouting year. I then came across a Troop all lined up and when I told the Scoutmaster I was a Scout from America he had the boys give me a special three cheer yell – this was good to know Scouting is alive and well in Poland.

As I walked up the entrance to the castle I was in luck for there was no entrance fee on Sunday, so I just wandered in. This castle is quite in tact and beautiful with a cathedral, gardens, central court yard with Royal apartments about it, and battlements where the enemy was rebuffed. Afterwards I ambled back along the park surrounding the old town the by the 13th century university, a stately building that befits the image. The fellow I met on the train to Krakow graduated from here.

Now for some Internet work and update my WEB page. I had put the new information plus pre-written emails on my USB memory stick so all I had to do is COPY and PASTE – makes it quick. That being done I headed back to my room and picked up my gear. This time I arranged to make my luggage into a backpack which worked well and definitely gave me a morning work out.

I finally found where to get my train ticket then proceeded to find something to eat since lunch time was here. I found a nice kabob of sausage and chicken plus some apple juice. I purchase a bit of bread and two yogurts for the trip. Soon I was on my way to Austria. I decided to just pass through the Czech Republic just having no interest. The countryside is quite nice with farm lands, good looking homes, and rolling hills.

Arrival in Vienna, a large city, posed a few problems. First I had to find an ATM to have money to get anywhere and fortunately these are everywhere. I purchased some dinner and a tram ticket, for seniors no less, having found out the area where Hostels were – regular hotels cost 100 Euros and up. Well, I went outside the RR station (Bonhoff) and saw where the #18 tram was to the area of Hostels. I met a nice Persian girl who helped direct me where to get off. I found the stop, despite the darkness and bit of light rain and many people. I went to the other RR station for the place where hostel reservations could be made but met with a most disagreeable woman who growled at me that she is a private hotel agency and would not help me – arrrgggg! I was ready to leave town right then and there; why should I have to put up with that kind of attitude. HENCE, I RECOMMEND ANY WHO FEEL THE NEED TO COME TO AUSTRIA TO THINK ABOUT THIS KIND OF ATTITUED FIRST AND THE COST. Well, I just left and wandered the area of Hostels and found one – a very nice one for 15 Euros a night. This place is new, comfortable, has hot showers, and puts up a good breakfast. I put my things in my area of a small dorm and came down to eat my dinner. I found a fellow playing the guitar and singing so I joined the group. It was a group of three US Army pilots for a nearby base and a university gal from Canada, a good looking one too. Soon I began to fade so I went up to my room where there was a couple (yep, mixed sex dorms – why not, we are all human) who were from Hungary so I tried to learn a couple of Hungarian words.

The Polish and German languages seem to me to be quite gruff and in fact when they speak it would appear that the person speaking would "throw" his communication at the other person and not too softly. I wonder if they can be gentle with their voices?

Since I am continually changing money in the countries I am traveling, just like the old days, it is such a pain. The Euro money in many of the countries will make things much easier. Mind you the US dollar is falling fast against the Euro. I think the Eastern European countries will eventually get in to the EU market and have a common money system which will save millions.

4 September 2006 – In Vienna, Austria

Well, as long as I am here I have arranged to go on an afternoon walking tour of the center of town to get some exposure to this city of music. However, I will be glad to leave this large city tomorrow and head for Croatia tomorrow. I should really look for a small village to stay in to gain some peace and quiet.

I was up early and had the Hostel breakfast of coffee, a couple of bread rolls with butter and jam plus some orange juice. Afterwards I did spend some time updating my log and figuring out my next travel link, I think to Croatia for about 4 days and just enjoy the coast there. In the Hostel there are so many interesting folks – one gal was from Sonoma having just graduated form UCSB in biology – she has quite a trip planned. I just lazed around and walked a bit buying some fruit. At 14:30 the actual walking tour did not take place so I just took off on my own, besides I have seen plenty of cities. I hoped the subway to the center of Vienna where I emerged not far from the castle with all its ornateness. Anna is right about using a bike since everything is flat but I like to walk – besides with all the cars, narrow streets, and thousands of people I might have had a problem. I saw one crumpled bike as it was. So I wandered along the main street with its many open air restaurants and very high class shops – I could afford them but it would definitely break the bank. I wonder who shops here. I saw the great cathedral (it looks just like all the rest) and the many narrow streets with building tight as could be along the edges. Of course, there were only a few thousand tourists, not travelers, walking about. I did reach the Danube River to find that it is not blue but very green.

The sun was out and warm but there was a cool breeze. I just wandered some of the back streets until I can upon a nice little park where I sat and ate my tangerine just watching the people go by. Rested, I moved on zigging and zagging upd and down the narrow streets. Out of sure probably and random movement I cane across the main street with all its cafes. I found a cafe where I just had to have some apple strudel and a cup of espresso, well when in Vienna this is what you must do. Then I wandered back to the metro and the Hostel.

I sat in the patio area and chatted in Spanish with a fellow from Mexico and one fellow from Argentina, but we switched to English since they were much more proficient that I was in Spanish. An older couple joined out conversation, they were from New Zealand. They had been in Prague where they said almost 100% of the people there get robbed – ugh. I am glad I did not go. Well, the city is apparently beautiful but the people are poor, a bad combination. The fellow from Mexico mentioned that the middle class was disappearing that many of the same problems were taking place there. There must be a lesson from this – the leaders must give more to the general populace and not split the haves from the have-nots. Bush, unfortunately is doing a good job of making the rich richer and the poor poorer getting ride of the middle class as well as any educational, health, and environmental benefits. Well, we can still elect George out!

I took a nice hot shower in this great Hostel – I wish America learned how to make hostels like this where folks can get a good bed for an inexpensive rate plus meet all kinds of neat people. Maybe Waldport can start a great hostel. Clearly, the hotels of the world cater to the rich and business persons. As I packed up my things there was a gal playing the guitar in the patio below as her friend sang – you cannot pay for this kind of atmosphere and camaraderie. It is this kind of communication that really makes the World the great place it is. I can now here some more guitar music down stairs.

5 September 2006 – Moving on to Croatia

Well, at least in that direction. To give me a relaxed time this morning – I’m just not into jumping up and catching the early trains – I took my time to pack up and sit in the Hostel patio having breakfast of coffee and some bread with jam – I had purchased a banana the day before for my morning fruit. Then I was off on my way. So if I took the #18 tram from the bonhof when I arrived it seemed to make sense to take it the other direction back, and so I did – spot on too. As I was standing in line for a ticket a man rushed up to me somewhat in a flap and asked if I spoke English, to which I replied "a little". He was in a rush to get a ticket for a train that was leaving very soon ( on this trip I have disciplined myself not to get into that anxious and rushed position so I take my time going about my business of travel leaving extra time before travel actions). I then asked him where he was from [Boston] to which I replied I was from Oregon … he then commented I do speak English.

I arranged my ticket which is a combination of Eurailpass in Austria plus a purchased ticket in Slovenia and Croatia t get to Zagreb but it involved two transfers so I would arrive earlier in the evening that going on a single train. I was glad to get out the big city of Vienna, as beautiful as it is with all its "musical’ attributed [none of which I could hear] plus the thousands of tourists, high class shops, and Blue Danube that is really green. Perhaps a little tricky with the two train changes but with some conductor guidance I could do this.

I had prepared and purchased a sandwich, drink, and a couple of cookies so as to not starve en route. We were on our way, I in First Class Eurailpass coach where I met a very nice lady from New York who was born in Croatia and was returning to visit family – we had a good chat. We glided through the Austrian Alps with beautifully covered mountains;. Why would one want to go to the cities with this kind of countryside available? I made my first train change but the next train was a little late by over and hour. Usually, the European trains are spot on time too. So I just took a relaxed position watching the puffs of white clouds drift by in the azure sky, peaceful it was – who cares, what difference does it make. I quickly met four New Zealanders also waiting for the train and we had a good chat since we had NZ knowledge in common. They lived at the very southern tip of NZ where I had been once about 40 years ago. I then met a fellow and his wife from Seattle who had come t charter a sailboat off Croatia; obviously I offered to be crew and provided my credentials. We laughed and joked about sailing and racing 40+ footer boats.

Finally, our train came and I had the first class car all to myself. This train ride was going to be about 3 hours so I could take my time eating lunch. Boy, were the cookies good, chocolate too. It was announced that this train, too, was running late but I could catch another train for my next journey leg.

It was afternoon now and we were now in Slovenia (who has ever heard of this little country?) with its large hills of green dotted with well kept houses. We went by village after village of immaculately kept roads, fields, and houses. Many of the houses had colorful flowers in their window sills that just stood out from the dark wooden house background. All around were evergreen trees covering the hills, except where fields were sewn. There seemed to be great fields of corn just waiting to be picked. We passed beautiful streams from the hills and followed along a river just waiting for canoes. At times there would be large light colored rock outcroppings standing out from the surrounding green. I just dreamed I should stop here and just wander. Every once an awhile there was an old castle on the side of a hill or a church with high steeple perched on a crest. The sun was getting low in the sky yielding long colorful rays that cast large shadows as well as lit up in brilliance small villages and plowed lands on the side of the hills. I tried to capture some of these with my camera but I doubt if the photos will do justice to what I was viewing.

It was getting later and the train conductor announced that we were now over two hours late. Well, first I was not excited about arriving in yet another large city (Zagreb) and especially late in the evening - I just wanted to jump off into this beautiful countryside, now. I schemed as to what to do. I could continue on this train to Ljubljana, Slovenia, another big city or I just did not know what. We approached my next train transfer point whereupon I asked the conductor if there were any hotels near this train station – the reply was not encouraging since there were no more than 4 houses. But, my next train would be along in less than 10 minutes. I got off, still thinking how I could stay in this area. Sure enough, my next train came along quickly and when I got on found the New York lady who had taken the other train route. Well, now what to do. We asked the conductor if my ticket would be good to travel tomorrow if I were to get off soon – I would be good. But, where would the train stop next? Who cares, sure enough we pulled into a station where there looked to be more than 4 houses and I made the decision to just get off and take pot luck. Does it really matter? In all my travels I have never not had a place to sleep or something to eat; no I would not starve and I would not die. In this countryside I would be happy with almost anything. Of course, I was planning on a decent hotel so I could get some laundry done since I had begun to stink swapping between my two pairs of pants each day, but I did always have clean sox and underwear, plus at the Hostel I had two hot showers per day. Alas, what would I find in this town in Slovenia?

I said good bye to my New York friend and just got off the train – on it went to Zagreb and another big city. I think I was the only one to get off and I walked down the platform to where there was a crossing to the main station platform. So the station looked like a littler older one with a number of doors marked over each with a particular function. It was now later on in the evening, almost 21:00, darker shadows now covered the valley of this village.. Shouldering my pack and side bag for food I stopped on the main platform and looked for signs of something that might give me direction. Yes, there was an open door with a sign above it reading "info…" so that was a good start, through it I went. I was now in the train lobby with high ceilings and few benches – only one person was in it. I walked to the ticket window to find some guidance to a hotel or something – well, he was not very helpful. But as I turned the one person in the station, a young lad, got up and seemed to have some command of a few English words. I inquired about a hotel to which he responded that there was on just down the road "that way", he pointed. So, at least I was headed in a direction – physically and psychologically with a good probability I would find shelter. Sure enough, after one more query of some passing strangers, I came to the Ajdovec Hotel. The office was closed but the bar-restaurant person showed me to a room, and they had laundry service too plus the prince was 1/3 that of any big city. This whole area seemed safe and serene which made me feel very comfortable and I did not need to keep up such a guard against people elements. After along day’s travel I was glad to put my pack down somewhere and there was hot water in the shower. This hotel was good too since I could charge my expenses and not have to change money into yet another currency (they are not yet part of the European Common Market and don’t use the Euro – but I found princes marked in Euros and they probably would have taken them.

Needless to say, though it was late, I was hungry and went to the hotel restaurant patio. Now I realize my decision to stop here was the best. I sat watching the fading silhouette of the local mountains with the diminishing daylight; the patio lights came on to give a nice glow to the eating area. I ordered a mixed salad, the trout with almonds would have to wait until tomorrow evening, and a cold beer. To round out the dinner I could not pass up the ice cream with hot sour cherry sauce – you would not believe how good this was. Well, now for a good night’s sleep in this romantic fairyland after a hot shower.

The dinner menu had several sayings on and one caught my eye: "Food should be your medicine, your medicine should be your food". Hypocrat

6 September 2006 – In Sevnica, Slovenia

I slept in then had a nice patio breakfast with great coffee, fruit, and fresh bread with jam/honey. As I sat on the patio I could see the mist fill the valleys above me.

My stay here will be relaxed and get my clothes cleaned. This means some catch up with my log and then off to see the local city. Stopping at the local city Information office I found my late morning destination – a local castle. So off I went walking up the ancient roads a couple of kilometers to the top of a hill overlooking the valley and what a view it is dotted with houses among the greenery and flowing river down the middle. This castle was originally built in the 12th century and last vacated just before WWII. This is a cute little place three stories up around a court yard with the well in the center. I joined a couple from Ireland for a look around – there were several rejuvenated rooms, some with wall paintings, that are now used for conferences (what a neat place for a conference) and a couple rooms of modern art displays plus one dedicated to the local firemen over the past century . We visited an outbuilding that was used in the early days of Protestants as a church with some old frescos, interesting. I then walked down the "old" road to the castle now almost covered with plants but with a definite retaining wall on the upper side. This led me to a village where I treated myself to a soft ice cream then I walked back to the main village. There seemed nothing much special except to walk through the area viewing where the populace lives. I was directed, actually taken, to where I could get on the Internet – the local library and it cost me nothing. I am surprised that there is not an Internet café in town – odd. Now back to the hotel and the trout dinner I promised myself.

7 September 2006 – Now On To Croatia

After a leisurely breakfast I packed up and headed to the train station for my train to Zagreb. On the platform I met a university student in economics who not too hopeful about her country’s economic condition since the local industries were closing down and Slovania did not have much to export to bring in money.
Alas, this seem the problem of many countries, including the USA – these folks just have to think in terms of CHANGE to goods and services that are salable in the world. The US continue to ignore this issue and will one day wake up well behind the power curve, and when the US has great potential for many sophisticate goods and services that most other countries just do not have, yet. The US has even lost the university education market from overseas since we had such a great success at helping other countries get their university systems going. Ah,well – doomed by our successes in the World.

Now I was on the train headed for Zagreb. Upon arrival I realized I did not want to stay in another big city so I purchased a ticket to Split. There was time before the train left so I decided to take a personal tour of the city – I just hopped on a tram and went to the end and back taking about an hour. This is a great and cheap way to see a city. Yes, I saw the old buildings and flower gardens; I’m sure the parliament building, Government buildings, down the back streets, and the open market. Where else could one find such a tour. Now back to the train station restaurant for a bite to eat.

I was off on my two coach motorized modern train; the seats were a little stiff but I managed. The countryside we went through over the next five hour was beautiful. There were slow moving rivers, lakes, and large hills devoid of trees that reminded me much of Southern California towards San Diego. There were some mountain areas we climbed through with wonderful and beautiful forests. Along the way I could see many new buildings and a number of bombed (?) out ones too. One item I did notice was the new highways and new train bed that had obviously been built since the finish of the local war. Since Croatia does not seem to have the resources I suspect that much of the money of these infrastructure projects came from the US an UN – our taxes at work in the World.

As we approached Split it had become dark but with a beautiful full orange moon peeking over the hills. As I got off the train there were a number of local residents all vying to rent you an inexpensive room – I just chose one, who knows. Well it turned out ok but I had to arrange for a forgotten towel and blanket. The fellow who picked me up was a retired seaman of many years and he was helping his parents by renting extra rooms in their home in the center of the city. Well, for $40US I get a clan bed, private room, hot bath, and breakfast – better than the tourist hotels costing above $100US. Yes, I think Croatia is overpriced and overrated, but it is an interesting place with good beaches and a nice National Park. I guess the US is becoming a "poor" country since a private motel room in Newport,OR, costs less than $30 – have the economic tables been turned?

 

8  September 2006 – In Split, Croatia

 

I now have had a hot bath and good breakfast. At this moment I am sitting on the patio in the warm sun putting my notes together and uploading photos.  IN a relaxed mood and mode I walked into the city of Split – what a neat place with its very narrow ancient streets but bery mod shops.  Just going by the old 4th century ruins is quite a sight.  I stopped for a good lunch in one of the many outdoor cafes then wandered on to see the yacht harbor. Boy, are there some big yachts there. This Country is rich and getting richer from tourism.  There are many large private yachts along the quay that are chartered out. On one was a group of young folks just really having fun – yes, this is a party city.

 

The place where I am staying, a home, is not far from the center and the old woman makes great home made fig jam. Her son seems to take care of bringing in the tourist (backpackers) since the hotels are quite expensive $100+ where he only charges about $30/night. This is a real home with a vegetable garden and, fig trees, and grape vines.

 

The saddest thing about these countries is the graffiti everywhere – it seems some folks just have no respect of other’s property or the public building. Alas, to what end? It would seem public pride manifests itself in power struggles and war of one nature or another. On the other hand these places I am visiting seem to be doing quite well – good food, good clothes (very mod), new cres, and good transportation – so people are living better than they have ever lives. Is it all on credit, borrowing from the future?

 

I have noticed I must be more articulate now about talking about “mail” which now, more often than not, refers to “email” verses “post”.  Choice of words when talking to others is critical for clear understanding..

 

I picked up a bite to eat at one of the many stalls and headed back to my room for a good sleep. The breeze blew off the sea most of the night which kept things cool and nice but the days are warm.

 

9  September 2006 – In Split, Croatia

 

I have decided to stay another day since I have the opportunity, after asking about. It seems there was a Belgium in the same house who were driving north and visiting the Croatian Nation Park. [ Opportunities are created! ] and I could ride along. They picked up their rented care and we were off for a drive in the country.  At the Park we had lunch, I bought, then took the lake boat into the park.  Once there we paid the $10US fee and walked the many paths around some beautiful falls and little rivers all across the valley. There was a hydroelectric plant and a display of one used in the latter 1800’s – one of the first in the world.  They took a swim in the river just below the falls, I had not brought my swim suit – oh, well. Then we drove to another part of the upper lake and hiked about  the beautiful country. The countryside was not unlike that near San Diego in the mountains to the east but with more trees – many kinds – and more water. There is some good opportunity for sailing and canoeing here.

 

We finished up and headed back to the nearby town where they were going to stay, dropping me off at the bus station at night.  Now here is where things went well and I did not worry. I purchased my ticket from a very nice clerk for the hour and half ride back to Split. The busses here are great long distance new ones but they do not allow the use of the onboard toilet – ugh. So I just had to hold it.  I arrived back at the Split bus station and knew vaguely how to get back to my room. So I just followed my instincts through the myriad of small streets and turns returning directly without any mistakes. I was never really worried. The nice thing about staying in a home is that it is quite secure.

 

I have learned one thing in these travels – the American Express Traveler’s Checks are not really valid except in special banks. Most vendors and hotels will no longer take them and the American Express Company will not see that you could redeem them for $50 US dollars. This is not good.  There are many ATMs that make it very convenient to get money when needed. The AMEXCO cheque has gone by the wayside. Even in America these checks are not accepted and the AMEXCO card is also not very widely accepted.

 

10  September 2006 – To Debrovnik, Croatia

 

Today I am on my way by  bus down one of the most beautiful coastlines  I have ever seen. This is a good place to come and just stay for a month. There are many red roofed houses, apartments, and hotels with beautiful small beaches. Out to sea you could see a number of sailboats. There were even a couple of large tourist ships in the harbor. I got off the main bus and onto the city bus where I showed the dirver a little map[ of where I wanted to go, the Youth Hostel. He flagged me where to get off and I walked from there to a nice place. I even met a fellow from Oregon as well a others from Israel, Belgium, New Zealand, a New York gal traveling around the world, and several from the UK.  WE had a great discussion on a number of topics. This is where real communication takes place.

 

Now off to see the city before I catch the bus back this afternoon.  Well, it was a good idea to walk the large wonderful castle in Dubrovnik but there were three very large cruise liners in port which filled the castle with thousands plus all the shops in the narrow beautiful streets were very up scale.  I did branch off and go up some of the steps into the back regions of the castle which were neat. But, I was tired of the throngs of people and spouting guides in numerous languages so I headed back to the Hostel to pick up my gear and take the bus back to Split to catch my train to Budapest that night.

 

I can tell you that the 5 hour bus ride back was beautiful along the Croatian Coast when I wanted to just get off and spend a month at the crystal clear water’s edge. There is sailing, para-sailing, fishing, and just plan relaxation on the beach.  I arrived in Split and headed for a good restaurant for a good dinner before taking the train. I had a great large chicken salad and finished up with fried bananas, ice cream, and chocolate sauce plus an espresso coffee.

 

11  September 2006 – To Budapest and Romania

 

 

I had book first class sleeper since I was not paying for a hotel, which in this land is really 2nd class. I sure wish they would at least clean the train windows to see the great scenery.  I slept ok with the rock and roll of the train and woke up at the station in Zagreb. But soon we were on our way north. Interestingly enough I met a newly married couple on the train from Portland, OR. – it is a small world. On the other hand Croatia seems to be a magnet for may vacationing folks, especially from the UK so I am not surprised. I think as I get on to Romania and the summer season winds down I will not encounter so many tourists. For sure, Europe is full of them as opposed to traveling across Russia and in Mongolia where they were there but not in the hordes I see here. Now onward to Budapest.

 

12  September 2006 – To Budapest and Romania

 

It was cool so earl;y in the morning I obtained the second berth blanket and slept until early morning.  I was up and dressed when the car steward offered a a cup of Nescafe coffee in a black cup, little did I know he was going to try to charge me 1/5 Euros for this cup – but I was told drinks in First Class were free at the station (I offered him Croatian money which he refused so I just told him NO! – Ah, well).

 

We rolled into the typical large Budapest station and I said good bye to my Oregon friends.  I had thought a lot about coming here and my mind was not really for it. But, it was a major city in Europe that, I suppose tourists ought to see. I was first interested in finding the train schedule for Romania then possibly a hotel in this big town. Well, along comes a nice older man asking me if I would like a sena (room) to say at for 20 Euros with breakfast and access to the Internet. This sounded tempting. I asked what was special about this big city of Budapest and he pointed out on his map the museums, castle, parks, and many streets – probably full of people and expensive shops. I kept asking myself if I really wanted to stay in yet another big city and most certainly I was not interested in castles or museums. Naturally, the many people on the streets did not turn me on either. My thought processes were working overtime. I had posed an idea to myself a little while ago to just keep going on my Eurail pass to a city en route to Romania.  I found the train schedule and there was a train leaving for a mid-way city in 8 minutes. Well, my intuition and lack of interest in a big city, I don’t care how important to history it was, led me to dash for the train.

 

I quickly asked the nearby conductor if this was the right train and hopped aboard the first class section now headed for Arad, Romania. Who has ever heard of this place. Not having had much to eat I finished off a candy bar and ate some nuts I had – I was not starving.  For the next fours hours we whizzed through the very flat fields of Hungary then Romania.  Of course, there were two stops for immigration for each country to check me out and ask where I was going.  At one stop I just sat quietly watching the last of the sun light highlight the electric train wires above. There was a mass of them tethered to weights at the poles to keep them taught. Neat they were hanging ready to power a train engine in silence, so nice.  There were a row of tank cars next to us also in shadows of the fading sunlight.  And on we went  not knowing what I was going to come into.

 

At my destination I got off the train with about 3 others and entered the station – I was now in Romania. What a contrast to more modern Europe, this was more like Mexico or Paraguay.  As I walked the station there was a large gaping hole I had to avoid. I changed some dollars for local money of LEI and walked to the outside. I could see gypsies all about in their long skirts and covered head, really colorful. Of course, be conscious that these folks are masters at fleecing you I kept vigilant. A taxi driver who spoke some English offered to take me to a pension but not after a woman offered to come alone to sleep with me. Not to worry, this fellow seems to be ok and we went to several “motel” like places. We found a nice one for 63 LEI (about $30). Fortunately there was a restaurant next door so I had a nice chicken meal, nothing fancy mind you – there was a chicken cutlet, tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, bread, and I drank peach nectar then off for a good hot shower and bed.

 

13 September 2006 – In Romania

 

This morning I will take a tour of the city with my taxi driver so as to see where I am.  I had a decent breakfast of coffee, bread, and jam - the usual. Now for the tour of town and country provided by my taxi cab friend.  What a good day we had in this little non descript town.

 

My first class sleeping compartment was a great investment for $20 and at the moment I have it to myself. There is a basin with running water, a bottle of mineral water, toothbrush, towel, and shoeshine rag. When I walked in the bed was all made up with fresh linen. I could even plug in my computer for charging so I think I will do some catch up on my log as the sun sets.

 

At this moment I can see the sun setting in the west as my train passes by a large river slowly running to the sea. The local hills are getting dark and long shadows draw across the corn fields.  We just passed and old railway building that clearly has not been used in years since all of the windows were gone. The overhead train power wires standout in the dim light as straight black lines in the sky. I was too slow for a photo since we just passed a parked freight train.  Again we are in the clear, except for the planted trees along the tracks with corn fields just beyond. The sky is a little pale with high clouds filtering the sunset and making it murky. An old house beside the tracks just went by, its roof missing and leaving me wondering what happened to it – who lived in it and when. But, first back to my day excursion.

 

Well, my cab driver picked me up at 10:00 sharp and we headed into the city as he explained to me about Romania and its problems of people leaving and corrupt government. He pointed out the old hospital and a small museum that held only some WWII relics.  I could see there were some very nice old buildings from many years past scattered among those built during the Communist period.

 

My one star motel was really quite nice and clean plus it had plenty of hot water. Well, my cab driver picked me up at 10:00 sharp and we headed into the city as he explained to me about Romania and its problems of people leaving and corrupt government. He pointed out the old hospital and a small museum that held only some WWII relics.  I could see there were some very nice old buildings from many years past scattered among those built during the Communist period.  The old trolley system still seems to run, two cars at a time and pointed at both ends.  Needless to say the streets were not well maintained but passable.  I always get a kick out of the posts that are put in the sidewalk to keep folks from parking their cars on the sidewalks – this seems to be the way for all the East European countries since their streets are very narrow and more and more cars are being used. I have  not found any parking lots just yet. Croatia and Poland are the same.

 

We headed out into the countryside to see some villages. As we drove along I could see only a small percentage of the land was farmed. All of the land belonged to the “state” at one time and all mineral rights currently belong to the “state” so I suspect farming is not practical without new large equipment and a lot of investment. As we approached a village I could see the houses laid out on a grid of streets, each quite neat and with a large iron gate – this sure reminds me of Mexico or Paraguay or many other places. Of course, there is a church in each village but we stopped at one but it was all locked up. The cab driver, Adrian, told me that the young folks just do not pay much attention to the church any more; it seems this is the same story in Poland and Russia too – as well as in the USA.  So much for the influence of the church; the Communists did a good job of  turning young people away from the church. Of course, our modern world with all its entitlements and technology seems to have the greater effect on spiritual matters.    Then, right there in front of us was the classic vehicle, a horse drawn cart laden with wood, then there was another and another.  Yep, the old way still works.

 

We drove out to some natural mineral springs that had a bit of sulfur and carbonation to it. Several people were filling jugs of the water coming out of a pipe in fits and spirts. Yes, I did taste it so I guess I will feel better now. We traveled on to another village now where a number of gypsies live. My oh my but their houses are really ostentatious – large and well appointed. I don’t know where they get their money since I am told that they do not like to work. Hence, there is a bit of stealing and pick pockets here just waiting for the unsuspecting and many of them go to Germany and other countries to work and send money home where things are cheaper … just like the Mexicans.  As we traveled the back roads of the countryside one could feel the pot holes every few meters; alas, there was a large crew out attempting to fill these holes up. However, at their rate more holes would appear faster than the rate at which they were being repaired, such is the work force here.

 

We came back into town and Adrian showed me where I could cash a couple of American Express checks, for a 20% fee – ugh. The moral here is to not use American Express checks since they are instantly devalued and few places take them.  Ah, well, I was able to get some more local money since I will need it. We then went to the train station and made reservations for a sleeper to Bucharest. Next Adrian guided me to a nice restaurant where I did have a good meal of chicken, rice, salad, a beer, bread, espresso, and ice cream for under $10. The waitress was very nice and even handed me a 5 LEU note that I had dropped.

Now I ambled towards the train station just down the road walking by each store along the way. At one I purchased some apple juice for my train trip.  With my small pack on my back, my blue bag for food and a couple of books over my shoulder, and pulling my small case I negotiated the rough side walk with its missing pieces of cement. Just as I arrived at the station the cab driver, Adrian, drove up and we chatted for a while and he helped me locate  the right train platform. Of course, I just picked up my bigger bag and started down the well worn stairway to the tunnel under the tracks. We then climbed the set of crumbling steps leading to platform two. 

 

There was a young lady and a couple of young men who seemed to be together with about two dozen bags. Several of the bags were large and made of very strong nylon-plastic woven material that took two of them to handle. It seems some folks just pick up and move when needed. They sure looked like gypsies to me.

 

As I walked down the platform I could see there were seats of fiberglass but several of them were broken and laying in pieces on the ground. In a parked train on the 3rd track there was a fellow singing out the window and pumping his head in and out of it as fast as he could, clearly not mentally stable. I kept walking since my sleeping care would be the last on the train that was now pulling into place.

 

I chatted with a fellow who had been living in Holland but was really from Romania and was back here legally fighting the “underground” as best he could, so he said.  He seem quite nice and sincere so I had not reason to not believe him, but who knows, interesting.

 

The sky is now quite dark grey with only a glimmer of sunset and the pencil pines and old buildings along the track a but darkened shadows.. I can see the overhead train wires again against the almost dark sky. The building where we seemed to have stopped at the moment is dark with broken windows but there is a glimmer of one light in one window – who lives there now? Another train just passed us going the opposite direction and I could only catch the two red tail lights. We are no our way now heading east towards the Black Sea. Yes, that is where I am headed tomorrow for some travel R&R.  Tis interesting what one sees along the tracks, there is an old burned out train car now.

 

I was fast asleep when at about midnight there came a knock at the train compartment door. Yes, a new passenger had just got on and it seems I was using his bed – he was yelling and screaming like you would not believe. When I first came in it seemed so natural to just plunk down on the made up bed not paying much attention to the particular berth numbers. I remember in Russia when this happened and the four of us in the compartment just picked out a berth independent of number with no problems. In fact, I my 50 years of travel and over 1 million miles on trains, busses, and planes I do not recall such a hassle as this one.  Naturally, I offered this portly gentleman the clean upper berth, but he would have nothing to do with that suggestion and kept on raving (actually his weight would have made it very difficult to get up into the upper berth). My second offer was to swap the upper clean bedding for mine on the bottom, but he kept raving at the train car porter. Clearly, he really wanted his OWN compartment. The porter then moved him to another available compartment and all was quiet until 5 AM when the train pulled into the Bucharest station.  I did have one thought as I went to sleep after the altercation that this fellow was about to slug me and cause an international instance, ah – well.

 

14 September 2006 – To the Black Sea

 

Here it was 5 AM and the large Bucharest train station was filled with people and trains. Once again I did not want to stay in a large city and had decided to just keep moving to the Black Sea. I went to the information window and the lady wrote down my platform and time for my train to the Black Sea so with only minutes to spare I dashed to the ticket window to obtain my reservation ticket and dash back to the train – so we left post haste.

 

But, of course, I was not quite awake but I could see the large flat farm land. Then as we approached Constansa I could see there were large waterways and highways all over the place. This is quite a port on the Black Sea. I understand that currently the US has a military base there – gee, I wonder why?  We even passed a set of shipping locks from sea level to river level and there were large loading cranes and wharfs along the way.  We stopped and let off passengers and on we went to Enforie Nord where I wanted to get off, but since I was in the last car I could not see the station sign until we were off and going again – ah, well. So,I hopped off at the next stop. The stationmaster was very helpful in finding a hotel that took credit cards since I was running low on ready cash and my American Express Travelers checks were of no use. She called a cab and I was taken to a Europa Hotel of the Ana Hotel chain. No, it is not cheap but, on the other hand, it is quite nice – besides it is almost my birthday and I wanted to splurge.  I could smell the sea air and it gave me a lift.

 

The hotel is quite grand, all 10 stories of it with grand dining areas, large beautifully trimmed garden, and large oval pool.  All of this very near the beach, in fact, from my room I can see the whole Black Sea.  The only catch was that the hotel was going to be full, I can’t believe it, the following few days and I would have to move, we shall see.  I did take a walk along the board walk and saw the hotel’s
yacht club” of several good looking sail boats … maybe if I could stay a little longer I could take one out.  I did check a couple of other hotels but most were closed for the season and the one that was not did not take credit cards. Well, I really did have enough cash but it would deplete it, on the other hand all I had to do was find an ATM machine. No worries.  Since I had not eaten for awhile I did sit down to a good lunch of cordon bleu before I took the walk.

 

I returned  rom my walk watching the small waves slide up on to the beach under a must beautiful azure sky. There were a number of people enjoying the beach with the usual stalls of drinks and stuff along the sand. The breeze was fresh but not cold and I just ambled taking it all in. Now, back at the hotel a little rest and off to the pool for a good swim. Now back, my body feels fresh. Oh, yes, I did not have any swim suit but my bikini under shorts work just fine, who cares. Believe me, others looked much worse in regular swim togs.

 

The neat think about good hotels is that they have an Internet connection right in th room so I shall get this log off to the world. Then I shall go down for a small bite to eat – like soup and dessert plus coffee after which  I believe I shall just sit and watch the Black Sea.

 

14 September 2006 – Black Sea

 

 

Here it was 5 AM and the large Bucharest train station was filled with people and trains. Once again I did not want to stay in a large city and had decided to just keep moving to the Black Sea. I went to the information window and the lady wrote down my platform and time for my train to the Black Sea so with only minutes to spare I dashed to the ticket window to obtain my reservation ticket and dash back to the train – so we left post haste.

 

But, of course, I was not quite awake but I could see the large flat farm land. Then as we approached Constansa I could see there were large waterways and highways all over the place. This is quite a port on the Black Sea. I understand that currently the US has a military base there – gee, I wonder why?  We even passed a set of shipping locks from sea level to river level and there were large loading cranes and wharfs along the way.  We stopped and let off passengers and on we went to Enforie Nord where I wanted to get off, but since I was in the last car I could not see the station sign until we were off and going again – ah, well. So,I hopped off at the next stop. The stationmaster was very helpful in finding a hotel that took credit cards since I was running low on ready cash and my American Express Travelers checks were of no use. She called a cab and I was taken to a Europa Hotel of the Ana Hotel chain. No, it is not cheap but, on the other hand, it is quite nice – besides it is almost my birthday and I wanted to splurge.  I could smell the sea air and it gave me a lift.

 

The hotel is quite grand, all 10 stories of it with grand dining areas, large beautifully trimmed garden, and large oval pool.  All of this very near the beach, in fact, from my room I can see the whole Black Sea.  The only catch was that the hotel was going to be full, I can’t believe it, the following few days and I would have to move, we shall see.  I did take a walk along the board walk and saw the hotel’s
yacht club” of several good looking sail boats … maybe if I could stay a little longer I could take one out.  I did check a couple of other hotels but most were closed for the season and the one that was not did not take credit cards. Well, I really did have enough cash but it would deplete it, on the other hand all I had to do was find an ATM machine. No worries.  Since I had not eaten for awhile I did sit down to a good lunch of cordon bleu before I took the walk.

 

I returned  rom my walk watching the small waves slide up on to the beach under a must beautiful azure sky. There were a number of people enjoying the beach with the usual stalls of drinks and stuff along the sand. The breeze was fresh but not cold and I just ambled taking it all in. Now, back at the hotel a little rest and off to the pool for a good swim. Now back, my body feels fresh. Oh, yes, I did not have any swim suit but my bikini under shorts work just fine, who cares. Believe me, others looked much worse in regular swim togs.

 

The neat think about good hotels is that they have an Internet connection right in th room so I shall get this log off to the world. Then I shall go down for a small bite to eat – like soup and dessert plus coffee after which  I believe I shall just sit and watch the Black Sea.

 

15 September 2006 – Black Sea

 

My room for the night is small but it has a nice bath with hot water plus it is right on the beach boardwalk up on a bluff overlooking the Black Sea.  I sat this evening at one of the many restaurants along the way just peering into the blue ocean. The waiter spoke some English so we chatted a bit – it seems that he is Romanian but tends to work here, in Turkey, and in Holland – as do many others. He is one of 10 in his family. There is something about large bodies of water. I could see a cargo ship heading off into the distance to some part of the World. Below me were a number of folks frolicking in the sand and surf, yet some females without tops – but it did not matter. These are the last days for this area. All is quite quiet with only a few people walking up and down the boardwalk. Most the hotels and restaurants have closed for the season.   There is a fresh but not cold breeze off the Sea and the sun is warm. As I walked to the restaurant I passed by 50 year old places badly in need of repair as well as new places looking shinny and sharp. A number of the hotels and restaurants were being worked on for the next season.  I sat down at the shaky plastic table where I had a nice piece of pork and potatoes. Fortunately, the meals here are quite large and I seem to often make the mistake of ordering a salad and main dish and an barely get through both of them.

 

The boardwalk is typical of third world countries, a nice job of mosaic cement bricks but often places have broken up; the cement wall along the boardwalk is cement drab and has a consistent but patchwork architecture to it – it works.  Like many emerging countries the plastic bottles, bags, and the like seem to be thrown just everywhere – the populace does not yet realize the impact on their world and do not seem to have any pride in keeping their public areas in any kind of real sharp shape. On the other hand, there are street and sidewalk sweepers that try to keep up with the mess.  Caring is just not a high value here and the other Eastern Block countries, just yet. Their focus is on living and trying to grow.

 

It is discouraging to hear from Adrian, my cab and tour driver, that corruption is so bad that he does not have much hope of his country doing well. There is no collective enthusiasm … i.e. no leadership since those who lead focus on using their power to gain wealth.  Of course, this is a universal attribute, evening the USA.

 

Cell phones are everywhere, especially with the young. Great potential can be seen everywhere but how to reach it is in question.

 

I woke up this morning to a beautiful sunrise over the Black Sea, a large bright orange ball appearing on the horizon with a few scattered clouds about it. I showered (always take advantage of any hot water you have access to – Doug’s travel rule  #48. I wend down to breakfast where a smorgasbord of all kinds of food. I suspect it was for the large group of tourists that had invaded the hotel, and did not allow me to stay a second night – so I moved to a cheaper one closer to the beach having obtained all I could from my expensive hotel, including some clothes washing/  Normally, breakfast is included in the hotel room fee but I was unsure about this one since I was treated as an al a carte guest. So, since the waiters were busy clearing tables I quickly gathered a good breakfast, ate it with all the others, and  not asking just went back to my room. Well, I paid enough for many breakfasts in my hotel bill!  Travel rule – always take advantage of available food; I even kept an orange to later on too.

 

Maybe I am really becoming multi-linguistic without study, but I can now look at a menu and sort of make out what man of the dishes are since  many words have roots from German, Latin, French, Spanish, British English, etc. and with a little attempt at pronunciation, really looking at the word, then doing some interpretation I can come close to choosing what I want. By osmosis and keeping your ear tuned to what others order you can use the foreign language, like “mineral water – no gas” to be direct; the waiters seem to know by the reverse language process.  Then, of course, by asking the waiter in English, even though he does not speak English, plus some hand gestures the communication is made.  Then again, a number of native folks here in Romania do speak English because they watch TV and work in other countries of Europe where English is quite common.  This is not true in Russia and Mongolia or China … just yet.  Doug’s language travel rule – just listen and try.

 

So, after breakfast I was determined to swim in the Black sea. So I hid my wallet in my luggage and locked it up then put a do not disturb sign on my door and left for the beach leaving all my money and passport behind. Well, I would not be long. On the beach I found a nice couple who spoke at least 10 words of English and put my stuff down near theirs – some security in being near others. I immediately undressed having put on my best pair of bikini underwear (well, why pack a needless piece of clothing – if I need a fancy bathing suit for the cruise ship I will just buy one) on and went for a swim – boy was it nice to have a dip in salt water. Surprise, it was not as salty as the Pacific. So I played in the nice cool but not cold water for a while. On the way back from the beach I found a secluded niche in an unoccupied beach building and changed from my wet suit to some dry clothes; it probably would not have mattered to do the change on the beach but I was right next to a very nice young woman …

 

Now back at the hotel, I once again took advantage of a nice long hot shower since I was paying for it then headed out to my new hotel. I quickly secured a room for 1/6 th the price of my fancy hotel and took a good walk along the ocean.

 

Well, my train leaves at 06:45 tomorrow morning to get me in early to Bucharest so I can head across Bulgaria to Greece during the day. I do not know how long it is going to take me or where I will have to switch trains but I guess I shall find out in the Bucharest train station. No problems. At worst case I just stay in Bucharest for the night and move on the next day or I may have the the opportunity to stay over night in Bulgaria. Since each country in this part of the world has their own money it is a challenge to use up what I have before I exchange more money. The ATMs here sure help and the train ticket can be purchased via VISA credit card. This is not true in Russia, just yet.  Once again, AMERIC EXPRESS  TRAVELERS CHECKS are of NO value any more in the World. If you do find a bank that will exchange them it will cost you at least 20% fee.  And, these used to be so valuable too. Also, the VISA and MASTERCARD has eclipsed the AMERICAN EXPRESS CARD too, the latter not being accepted in very many places except in 5 start establishments. Ah, well – so the world changes.

 

Now off to bead for an early start.

 

16 September 2006 – Black Sea

 

Since I went to bed early I was up early, even before my appointed time. I took  a nice warm shower to really wake me up then dressed and dashed out the door. The early morning was very quiet but in the air was the smell of warm baked bread being prepared for the day. There was not a soul around and I really did not know where the  train station was except that it was up the road not too far. Up past the shops to the bus center where I found a couple of other folks and a taxi driver who would take me directly to the train station.  There were more people gathering for the early train; I am sure glad I was a little early. I caught the local train to Constansa where I boarded the larger train headed for Bucharest.  It was a good thing I purchased a couple of bananas and some cookies for the 5 hour ride.  We passed by the large barge staging area that I noted on the way down. There seems to be a large set of water ways, locks, and passages into the interior.

 

The early morning sun slowly began to light the sky and homes along the track. I could see people getting out to work walking along the dirt paths. Many times I saw a horse drawn cart with several people aboard headed for work somewhere. Just like the old west I came across a store with several horse drawn carts “parked” out front … certainly a time warp back 150 years.  As we moved along two things struck me – one was the new rail bed being prepared and the derelict factories – buildings – and weed covered train yards. There were many old train cars rusting, some even tipped on their side.  As we passed by small train stations there was always a train station master standing outside “saluting” us with his train flag tucked under his arm as we went by.  I ate my “breakfast” and dozed off.

 

Upon arrival in Bucharest was to get a good lunch since it was almost noon – I found a nice chicken and rice lunch followed by some ice cream. Now I had to determine my next train ride. Well, I was too late for today’s train to Greece so I decided to stay the night at a good hotel and leave the next day.  I am staying at the Ibis Hotel, a large European chain – a little pricy but good.

 

This gave me the opportunity to walk about the city. What I saw was nothing less than a city that had not done much for the past 10 years. There were many unoccupied buildings and one was just a shell but the architecture suggested it had been around for many years, maybe 50 or even 100. A large hotel had been closed and just sat there. Of course, you can imagine the sidewalks were almost non-existent. It was Saturday so the hustle and bustle were subdued. My goal was to see the “palace” where the Communist leader had ruled and which is now the Romanian Congress. I walked through the park in front to get a good look and some photos. The building is quite a grand place.

 

I need to use the toilet so I needed to find a place. I noticed a portable one set up across the street from the Congress.  Well, it was a protester so I complemented him on his work and asked if I could use the toilet – it worked and I could continue walking without pressure.  It seems that the Romanian government also has some human rights problems but are free enough to let this fellow camp out in front.

 

The walk back was, of course, along a different route – travel rule #79, never return the way you went – which posed a possible getting lost problem. Alas, my intuition pays off again and I wound up right at my hotel. Keeping an orientation and sense of direction in a foreign country is always a good idea.

 

Wow, what a dinner. As I sat and ate there played a 6 live six piece orchestra at one end of the dining room. I seemed to the only customer so there was mutual focused attention.  After I clapped I really got the attention – I could just name my music, classical – of course – and they even moved to play around my table. I could not have asked for better, except to have a lady with me. I ended my rhapsody with Habanera from Bizet’s Carmen and some local gypsy music.  This a is great way to leave a country.

 

Now to finish up my travel log for this leg of my journey for tomorrow I leave for Greece and Central Europe.  The Eastern European countries have been very interesting and each has some long term challenges.

 

 

Enter supporting content here